Mis-fit trailer

[Ben]

I agree that moving the bow stop would make the project bigger and more paint to worry about making look nice.

I'd be tempted to tell the person who wants your trailer it will be available soon. Then look all over the place for a proper trailer. Mentally plan to use as-is for a while so you don't overpay on the new one because you are in a hurry.

My opinion: The few hundred or more you may "lose" on the proper trailer will certainly be money better spent than messing with an iterative experiment on boat position on the trailer + welding + trying to make the paint look nice.

Having said that, I wouldn't be super worried about welding on the trailer if you want. The bow stop is on the top side of the tube, which is in compression, not tension. The V-block think is just kinda floating out there, and if you extended that back somehow, I also wouldn't be too worried.

[tdjaster]

Originally Posted by Ben

I'd be tempted to tell the person who wants your trailer it will be available soon. Then look all over the place for a proper trailer. Mentally plan to use as-is for a while so you don't overpay on the new one because you are in a hurry.

This is pretty much what I've already done. We bought the boat almost 3 months ago.

Extending the V-block backwards wouldn't work because there isn't a cross piece to attach it to.

[Philscbx]

We locally have a specialized source for these type of axles.
Pioneer rim & tire in Mpls.

Possible source may be local for your area.
Then maybe put in a ad for wheels/fenders at Ebay/Craigslist.

For the weight class, sample :Torsion Trailer Axle — 3500-Lb. Maybe $250 - $400 depending on source & style & brake options.
It wouldn't have to have brakes on 2nd axle.

Yes, you would have to have cross beam support added for the V -Block.
I'd do a fly by at a custom trailer shop - see what they think for the changes needed.
He really is a good looking ship.

[petermegan]

Before you get too excited I think you should find the position your boat needs to be on the trailer to give you an optimum tongue weight. It may only be 4inches back from photos, in which case you could space the 'V block' up with some timber and carpet and possibly even space your boat buddy back with some welding. This would save any major engineering/painting and preserve the trailer as is. It is a nice trailer and a pity to change too much. I have a friend who has a 197 on a single that thought the tongue weight was a bit heavy so he shifted the main post back, not a big exercise either. Have fun.

[wrobins1]

Originally Posted by tdjaster

Pictures...

I looked up under the axle and I'm seeing too much that is welded so I don't think that idea will work.

My biggest concern with moving the bowstop back would be the shorter bow holder near the bowstop. If I move the stopper back (up to a foot), then the shorter bow holder will be too short. I suppose I could have a welder extend it but I'm sure they wouldn't be able to paint match it and I don't want this project to look second-rate.

I still have to check the actual tongue weight.

Take a look and tell me what you think.

Attachment 79888

Your trailer is a lot better match than my.... (softly crying) My trailer is closer to the white ez-trailer trailer beside yours. The only thing I can say is it was cheap.

[Philscbx]

The highly wanted dual axle Trailer.

Looks & I bet handles Great!

Notice how far under the Bow Holder sits.

A little search action found - reliablepmw.com - rubber_torsion_axle_quotesheet

Found dolly like I mentioned earlier for moving boat around in the garage.

[tdjaster]

Originally Posted by petermegan

Before you get too excited I think you should find the position your boat needs to be on the trailer to give you an optimum tongue weight. It may only be 4inches back from photos, in which case you could space the 'V block' up with some timber and carpet and possibly even space your boat buddy back with some welding. This would save any major engineering/painting and preserve the trailer as is. It is a nice trailer and a pity to change too much. I have a friend who has a 197 on a single that thought the tongue weight was a bit heavy so he shifted the main post back, not a big exercise either. Have fun.

Just took a measurement of the tongue weight....630 pounds!!!!

I used this method: http://hildstrom.com/projects/tonguescale/index.html, double checked my math, used myself and my wife as calibration attempts before putting the trailer on so I'm pretty certain it's accurate.

I estimate the boat and trailer to weigh around 3,500 lbs. Most calculations say you want 6% of the total on the tongue which means about 210 lbs.

We are going to the lake tomorrow so we're going to bring this science fair project with us and try re-positioning the boat on the trailer and re-weighing the tongue. I'm also going to hit a scale at a truck stop on the way out so I can get an accurate dry weight. I'll probably have an update tomorrow evening.

Thanks for all of the ideas everyone. If you've got any more insight, keep it coming!

[tdjaster]

What do you all think of taking off the Boat Buddy, getting someone to fashion a piece to extend just the top section of the bow stop back a few inches so that I then can reattach the Boat Buddy? Maybe it could be a solution without having to cut the bow stop off and weld it back on.

[petermegan]

Sorry, That was what I was trying to explain in my last post. It may be possible if it is only 4in. you have to shift your boat back. Chock up your V block with some timber and you might be away.

[Thrall]

While 600# tongue weight is alot for a PS 190, I bet the tongue weight of my X2 in tow is close to that on the OE tandem trailer.
If everything else works fine with the trailer and loading/unloading why not just spend a couple hundred bucks on a set of airbags or Timbrens for the back of your truck? Easier install than re-fabbing the trailer.