Platform Backing Plates Revisited

[sethro]

I've searched the threads regarding this topic, and I thought I would bring it back to life in another thread. My main question is, has anyone else done the West System Epoxy filler method detailed by Sporty here?

I'm going to reinforce my platform on my 85, but haven't decided if I want to cut out the floor and use backing plates or try the filler method. I don't think I'm in danger of the platfrom coming off, as it looks like a repair was done in the past...though I'm thinking it was probably just larger lag bolts and nothing else. But I do weigh 240lbs and want the piece of mind that it's fixed correctly.

Furthermore, I would like to put some kind of hard rubber gasket between the bracket and the hull, basically just to clean the look up a bit...much like a light switch cover to hide the repair area as the transom is not showroom perfect behind the mounting plates anymore.

I'm also considering removable (quick release style) brackets but not sure if I'll go that route. Any thoughts???

[BrandonKTM]

I looked over the backing plate thread. I have an 84 and we did a much simpler fix. Remove gas tank, remove brackets, drill existing holes all the way thru, replace lag screws with stainless bolts, lock nuts and fender washers on inside. Put waterproof caulking in holes before pushingbolts thru. No problem in 10 years. I would not recommend putting any gasket type material between bracket and hull. Movement on the platform will compress material, in,out,in,out forever. This will allow for leverage and hull will be damaged.

[sethro]

Brandon,

Are you saying you didn't have to cut the floor out to access the inside where the lag screws enter? Everything I've read says inside of the transom can only be accessed by cutting out the floor...haven't had my tank out yet to confirm this on my boat.

If I can access the area without cutting the floor, options are much easier. One guy I remember was able to acess the top two holes for the platform and just reinforced those.

Thanks.

[Killerack]

Sethro,
I had an 85 and did pretty much the same as Brandon except I did make 2) 1/4" thick backing plates and installed. Either way you go it will be better than factory. Once you get the tank out you'll find it's straight forward.

[sethro]

Killerack,

Same question to you...are you saying you didn't have to cut out your floor to access the area on the inside of the transom?

That would be great, but I'm almost thinking this is one of those "some boats you do, some you don't" deals. Hopefully I'll get the tank pulled this Friday and know for sure.

[BrianM]

If you want a bit of a gasket or backing plate to go between the bracket and the hull how about using a thin piece of lexan? The material will not compress and it should work just fine if you are trying to cover those couple of spider cracks near the bolt holes.

I think I would use the epoxy method first and see if that works to your satisfaction.

Originally Posted by Sporty

For epoxy filler use:
Drill the holes about 1/8” oversize (but I m skeptical of the drilling after I saw the spalled areas on my outside finish from the bracket removal).

Use an epoxy / resin hardener in a manner of a high slump consistency (thin consistency) and coat the inside of the screw hole(s) with this consistency of mixture (to seal the inside diameter area of the hole(s)). Then before that begins to cure, add additional 404 filler (apparently their product reference number) to reduce the slump consistency (thicken the mixture) and fill the hole(s) with this thicker add mixture consistency, as full as possible. Spray the lag screws with Pam cooking spray which will act as a barrier for the filler mixture in which not to adhere to the screws. This will allow the removal of the screws in a future step. In addition brush on the 404 mixture onto the screw threads, insert the screw into the holes and allow this to cure at least 12 hours. After the proper curing time, the screws will be able to be removed, leaving an epoxy-molded insert for reattachment of the platform to the boat. Upon removal of the embedded screws, if the screws exhibit a cracking sound or chip a bit of epoxy out while removing; simply brush on a bit more epoxy filler material upon entry placement of the screws when attaching the platform. This will fill in any cracked areas or chipped places inside of the epoxy-molded insert. Done deal.

Needless to say, use a silicone sealer as well on each bolted connection point to seal out any water.

Had I have seriously considered my options with the hind sight I have now (and foresight of completion) of the surgical procedure on my hull, I’d likely have tried this epoxy filler method first.



.

[Jim@BAWS]

Originally Posted by BrandonKTM

I looked over the backing plate thread. I have an 84 and we did a much simpler fix. Remove gas tank, remove brackets, drill existing holes all the way thru, replace lag screws with stainless bolts, lock nuts and fender washers on inside. Put waterproof caulking in holes before pushingbolts thru. No problem in 10 years. I would not recommend putting any gasket type material between bracket and hull. Movement on the platform will compress material, in,out,in,out forever. This will allow for leverage and hull will be damaged.

This is what we have done and it works perfect. My suggestion is
to get NEW removable platform brakets when you do it
That way you can always remove the platfrom

When the tank comes out everything is exposed in the stern
and easy to get to

Not a tough job at all to do

Jim@BAWS

[cbryan70]

i have a 78 im giong to be doing the same thing to. I was thinking drilling out the holes for the new brackets and putting a 1/4 inch backing plate in there as well. Think that this is over kill? Also i will have 4 brackets as that is the way the platform is. Should i throw all 4 on or just go with 2? I figure the more brackets the better in an older boat but i could be completly wrong. sorry forthe thread jack

[drylandfish]

Sethro, you will have to cut thru the floor under the gas tank just like Sporty and dichdoc have done in their threads. I just took the tank out of my '84 this past weekend and there is no other way to get a backing plate on for thru bolts. Good luck with whatever you decide to do.

[sethro]

I'm definitely not going to be certain in my head about cutting out the floor till I take out MY tank. My friend's 84 is accessible, but it is obvious from previous threads and drylandfish's post that some are not.

Cbryan, four brackets would definitely be overkill in my opinion...but the backing plate seems like a good idea.

BrianM, lexan would probably work. I'm envisioning a "cafeteria tray" shape but much more sublte edges.