will jl 8.8 fit in 07 x45?

[Ckrbjohn]

about to order all new JL speakers and amps for my 07 x45, right now im running all 7.7's in boat and 4 on the tower, powered by a variety of mtx amps... hoping to get input if the 8.8's will fit with little to no modification for the "inboat" locations... and also will a single mhd600/4 power all 8 speakers??? also going to be installing a new sub, probably a single 13w7 unless someone has a better idea! thanks- chris

[KahunaCraft]

Could you just start by replacing the amps, see how that improves the sound first, then replace the in-boat speakers with 7.7's...if you're still not happy after that, move the new in-boat speakers into the towers and go from there...

I'd suggest looking at what's recommended for the amps, get good amps, they can make a huge difference.

Also consider wetsounds, although I have little experience with them, I can't help but notice how much everyone loves them.

[bsloop]

Are the existing speakers shot for some reason or are you just looking for more sound?

If more sound is desired, what do you feel needs reinforced?

[Ckrbjohn]

The problem is that I have 10 year old mtx amps running everything... 2 separate 200 watt amps for the tower speakers, a 4 channel 400 watt amp running the in boat speakers, and a 1501d amp running two fosgate 12's... I already know that I have sufficient wattage powering everything but have blown 2 of the m100 tweeters... Meaning I will have to replace them... I don't like the idea of having 3 seperate amps running the components, and these amps are extrememly ineficient when it comes to power consumption...My initial plan was to clean it all up and install real marine style amps that will last a solid 5-10 years, and have read that the 8.8 speakers are a lot better in the form of mid to low bass, I'm just wondering if the 8.8 JL's can fit in the exhisting locations and if the jl 13w7 speaker is a waste of money...

[Aric'sX15]

youll have to make the holes bigger for sure. the magnet will be substantially bigger. 13w7 is not a waste of money at all. one of the best woofers out there IMO.

IMO you cant buy quality speakers and run them with garbage amps. i would look into new amps as well. Ive been in that situation with the set up on my old 205V.

[Ckrbjohn]

I think I am sold on the idea of buying 4 8.8's for the in boat locations, and leaving the 7.7's in the tower cans, and running two mhd600/4 amps and a mhd750/1 for the w7... So what do you guys think might work best for location of the w7? Maybe under the drivers seat and remove the factory jl sub, and leave the hole open???

[EarmarkMarine]

Originally Posted by Ckrbjohn

I think I am sold on the idea of buying 4 8.8's for the in boat locations, and leaving the 7.7's in the tower cans, and running two mhd600/4 amps and a mhd750/1 for the w7... So what do you guys think might work best for location of the w7? Maybe under the drivers seat and remove the factory jl sub, and leave the hole open???

I would use the HD1200/1 or better yet the Slash 1200 on a 13W7. Open field is very different from the cabin in a vehicle. Also, as you increase the moving mass and excursion capacity of a woofer this creates a greater demand for power....if you want to take full advantage of that additional potential.

Any seat or helm console, with the adjoining cavities, is usually a gigantic chamber. And this giant chamber represents a compliant air mass. The relatively small 10-inch opening vacated by the factory sub represents a resistive path, especially as a ratio of the large and compliant cavity. So there is less impetus for the bass radiation to exit the chamber. When you place a woofer into a box and then you place that woofer/box into a larger box (console) with a port (old woofer opening) you create some new dynamics. The phase response of the woofer and the phase response of the cavity are different. Some of the bass energy is consumed and some is filtered.
The ideal scenario is direct radiating that eliminates the seating or helm console interior as an energy trap. But you can't get the BIG surface area that you want with a direct radiating scheme.
It really doesn't matter how much acoustic energy is generated and wasted inside the seating or helm console. It matters most what is radiated into the open cockpit.
So your design should encompass these principles when possible. And, I understand that to a degree you have to take what each boat gives you.
A couple of techniques will help. Enlarge the vent as much as possible. Or, use multiple vents. Another option is to direct couple the woofer output to the wall surface so that the entire console cavity is sealed off and nullified.

David

[Ckrbjohn]

I had another option of installing 2 12 inch subs underneath the helm in a custom box that was ported out the side into the walkway... This individual had done it in previous Mastercraft boats and claimed that it was the best option for subwoofers and usage of space... And plus it was a tad cheaper since purchasing the w7 wasn't needed! Can anyone agree with his installation advice? Or should I stick with a w7? I do like the idea of having the subs in that compartment underneath the steering well, but it seems like all the bass is directed forward instead of in the main seating part of the boat.

[EarmarkMarine]

The way that bass propagates and dissipates in an open field I would prefer that the bass radiation is vented into the perimeter if the cockpit rather than the walkway. However, if the walkway meant that a vent of substantially more surface area was possible then I would have to consider it or even favor it.

David

[bsloop]

Were the tweeters fried on the tower or in boat?

People often fry the tweeters in their attempt to maximize volume. As they turn up the system louder they turn down the bass to prevent distortion. Does this describe your play?

Lack of power is another common reason. Depending on how things were wired, I would guess the JL's did not have sufficient head room, especially at lower battery voltage.

If the above assumptions hold true and the money you are looking at dropping on 8.8's have you considered Bullet's 7.7 hlcd? These do need about 6" or a tall boy can's height from the front mounting surface but the hlcd would definately solve a volume issue. I am very happy with 4 of the 6.5 hlcd's in my stock inboat locations.