header |
|
|
|
#1
|
||||
|
||||
|
Driver Panel Repair
While out on the lake today I noticed that the driver panel was bouncing a little more than it should. Upon inspection, it appears that the front bolt and washer have pulled through the panel. Basically, the plastic panel backing gave way. So, now I need to fix it. Anyone else had this problem? If so, I'd be interested in hearing how you fixed yours.
One idea I had is to use a cone shaped washer, if anyone makes such a thing. The bolt is recessed into the panel a good 3/8-1/2". If I could get a cone shaped washer in there, it would probably get more bit on more surface area of the panel. Anyone know a source for such a thing? By the way, this is on an 05 X9. Thanks for any suggestions.
__________________
Rob 2005 X9 350MCX |
|
#2
|
|||
|
|||
|
our X7 has the same problem. I'd be interested to hear of a fix too
cheers, |
|
#3
|
||||
|
||||
|
Yep, that is a common problem with a poor design. Several threads on this site about it but they are tough to find because it's not clear what to search on. Here is one thread.
http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/...t=PANEL&page=2 Most people just use a large washer commonly called a fender washer.
__________________
2003 ProStar 209, 2 flags, 8 cup holders |
|
#4
|
|||
|
|||
|
Good to know. My boat is doing that same. Ps205v 2001
|
|
#5
|
||||
|
||||
|
I ripped mne clear off with my arm on a wake.. Bought a new one and reinforced the hell out of it with glass
__________________
2002 Maristar 230 VRS |
|
#6
|
||||
|
||||
|
Had the same problem with our '02 X-9. Pulled the panel off, and was able to reinforce the back of the panel with some epoxy and thin mesh material, and glue the broken peice back in place. It's held up for 2-3 years now. Fortunately the screw and washer had not ripped through the vinyl, it was only the plastic panel itself that had cracked and broken.
__________________
"Horsepower is a terrible thing to waste" |
|
#7
|
|||
|
|||
|
I had the same problem with my 2006 PS209. I took a plastic bushing along with a washer and screwed it back in. The plastic bushing fit right inside of the indent on the panel. I figured that way with any vibration, it will help prevent the original hole in the panel from getting bigger, and so far it's worked and kept the panel tight. You can find the plastic bushings in any hardware store. Good luck!
|
|
#8
|
||||
|
||||
|
When mine broke if took out my ignition key.
Rubber grommets work well. You can find grommets that are the same O.D. as the I.D. of the hole. I also ran a stainless steel screw with a finsh head and trim ring through the bottom of the panel. Solid as a rock now.
__________________
2006 Prostar 197 |
|
#9
|
|||
|
|||
|
Seems to be a reoccuring design problem on all year model Mastercrafts. I would hope this thread would be passed on to the moderator and fwd to MASTERCRAFT. I have replaced my plastic switch panel with (never agian to crack) powdercoated aluminum. And had to fill all of my holes with an instant chemical resin that hards in seconds into plastic. I also had to do fiberglass work in large areas.
|
|
#10
|
||||
|
||||
|
Campbell, could you identify the resin used? I've replaced one panel on my PS197 and would be interested in preventive steps to avoid repeat of screw heads breaking thru the panel.
__________________
2002 ProStar 197 |
![]() |
| Thread Tools | |
| Display Modes | |
|
|